Ancient Rome

We took the bus to go to the Colosseum bright and early around 8.30am. We had bought the tickets online not knowing that the first Sunday of the month is free and also not anticipating the 30 minute wait in the line to just get in! Our virtual travel buddy for Europe, Rick Steve's did an excellent job on his audio tour guide helping us put the grandeur of this 2000 year old structure into perspective from a Roman history standpoint. Built at the peak of the Roman Empire in A.D. 80, the Colosseum represents Rome at its grandest. In the oval-shaped arena of this "Flavian Amphitheater" is where the gladiator contests and other public spectacles took place. Animal fights with dogs, lions, tigers, bears, crocodile, elephants, hippos and porcupines, female gladiators fighting each other would precede the main event featuring the gladiators.  They were kept in cages beneath the arena floor, then lifted up in elevators. Animals would "pop out" from behind the blinds into the arena at the floor level. Many gladiators met their death here, at times not knowing what hit them. Towering 150 ft. high, it could accommodate 50,000 roaring fans. Only a third of this massive ancient wonder remains. Seeing the king of beasts slain by a gladiator would remind the populace of man's triumph over nature. These spectacles were a way to bring home the environments, animals, and people of the conquered lands, parade them before the public and make them real. It seems to me that Suzanne Collins wasn't too far fetched in her gory "Hunger Games" series after all! 

With the coming of Christianity to Rome, the Colosseum and its deadly games slowly became politically incorrect. Gladiator contests were completely banned in A.D. 435. Animal hunts continued a few decades longer. Finally, around A.D. 523, after nearly 500 years of games, the last animal was killed and the Colosseum shut its doors.

 Between earthquakes and recycling some of the pre-cut stones into other buildings including St. Peter's during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance  took care of the rest. An engineering feat in an era devoid of the modern machines, a variety of materials were used including big white travertine from Tivoli, brick, concrete and plaster. Today, major political demonstrations begin or end here, providing an iconic backdrop for the TV cameras. On Good Friday, the pope comes here to lead pilgrims as they follow the Stations of the Cross. For nearly 2000 years, the Colosseum has been the enduring symbol of the Eternal city. 

The legendary Roman Forum is right next to the Colosseum. The sweltering summer afternoon heat made the 15 minute long line for entry seem much longer. Fortunately, the beauty of these historic ruins made up for the heat. The Forum is a rectangular valley running roughly from the Colseeum on one end to the Capitoline Hill on the other. The rocky path, "Via Sacra" leads from the "Arch of Titus", through the trees, past the large brick Senate building, through the triumphal arch at the far end. This expansive valley was full of gleaming white buildings topped with bronze roofs back from 500 B. C. to around A. D. 500. The original Forum, or the main square, was the flat patch about the size of a football field. Surrounding it were temples, law courts, government buildings, and arches. Rome was born here. Legend has it that twin brothers Romulus (Rome) and Renus were orphaned in infancy and  raised by a she-wolf on top of the Palatine Hill. The square was the busiest and most crowded. It was the political, religious, and commercial center of the city. It was the place for religious processions, political demonstrations, elections, speeches and parades by conquering generals. 

Amongst multiple temples, arches, the Curia (senate house), House of the Vestal Virgins, the Temple of Julis Caeser has the most significant story from my viewpoint. This famous Roman emperor was stabbed 23 times by his political conspirators in 44 B.C after he assumed dictatorial powers. His body was cremated on this spot and the temple built to honor him. Caeser 100-44 B.C) changed Rome and the Forum dramatically. He cleared out many market stalls and began to ring the square with even grander buildings. Later, Emperor Augustus dedicated this temple in his name, making the first Roman to become a god. Ancient Rome lasted 1000 years- 500 years of growth, 200 years of peak power and 300 years of gradual downfall. Amongst the many causes of the fall, the barbarians played a major part. However the Pagans and the Christians blamed it on each other! Barbarian tribes from Germany and Asia attacked the Italian peninsula and looted Rome in A.D. 410, leveling many of the buildings in the Forum. The Dark Ages in Europe began in A.D. 476. But Rome lived on in the Catholic Church. The glory of Rome remains eternal!

Chinmay's extreme enthusiasm coaxed me to go on top of the Palatine Hill despite the tiring heat for a rewarding bird's eye-view of the forum. We took the train to the Termini station and stopped for an okay lunch and headed back to our hotel to crash for the next hour or so before heading to the lively Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto.

The outdoor Italian vibe resonated in the extremely lively Trastevere neighborhood across the Jewish Ghetto. Live music, happy people all around and lots of restaurants serving delicious Italian food and drinks- cannot go wrong wherever you go! We soaked in this lovely Roman evening while enjoying our drinks at one of the outdoor bars before strolling around more for a lovely dinner with our "table-mates", a couple from New York who shared their experiences and gave us some tips for Florence!